The outer movable weight chambers are grooved into the bottom of the club like they were shot into it with a high-powered rifle. Again, the style is very similar to the old r7 Quad, but has a much more sleek and new-age look.
These are confidence-inspiring, sleek-looking clubs. From the top, the driver has a nice, clean black look to it. Though I typically prefer the pear-shaped drivers like the Titleist S, the TaylorMade r7 features more of a circular, rounded head shape. It took a little getting used to, but I can set up confidently now after a short adjustment period. The other difference between the new r7 and my S is the weight. All TaylorMade drivers have felt extremely light to me in the past… especially the r and r7 Quad.
Most likely the difference in weight is in the new REAX shaft. My preference is for a heavier driver. I feel like I can control the club, specifically the head, throughout the swing. Even though and the new r7 is on the light side, it was heavy enough for my liking. My normal shot is a low, boring draw with a low spin rate. Both the r7 and I reviewed came in 9. Other than the difference in weight mentioned previously, both the Titleist and TaylorMade shafts had a very similar feel.
My first impressions of the r7 were not good. I hit a series of balls very low and very left. Out of about 20 balls, I only a couple that were playable. Everything else was left of John Kerry. The new TaylorMade has a sharp, clean look to it.
I decided to get back out on the range and take a few minutes to evaluate my setup and how the club felt. The one change I made — which was small — was to put my hands a bit more forward at setup. This seemed to resolve the issues I was having with the closed face sending the ball low and left. Once I made the adjustment the balls started flying much better. While the ballflight was still a bit lower than my S, I was at least as long with the r7 My carry was probably in the yard area where it is usually a bit above with the Titleist.
As for the directionality, it was a bit off at first. However, something started to click once I took it out on the course. I played a round with it and had a great round off of the tee, only missing four fairways and never getting into any serious trouble. There are multiple configuration options on the and even more on the As for the , there where some differences and some similarities. The biggest difference to me was the launch angle. I hit a few drives with the that were longer than the or S.
Movable Weights, Wrenches, and Extras Both the r7 and the come with wrenches to swap and move around the weights. At no point did I have trouble moving the weights around, and once locked into place, the weights stayed where I put them without rattling. TaylorMade has perfected movable weights in at least this regard.
The headcover, while very stylish, is a bit tough to work with. It is nearly impossible to get it on with one hand. I usually have to pull the opening apart with both and stretch the sock over the clubhead. It should eventually loosen up over time. The grip is a pretty standard one. Conclusion I was admittedly ready to give up on the r7 I kept hitting the ball low and left.
Once I settled in, the r7 was a solid driver. I believe that golfers currently using TaylorMade drivers would be well served to upgrade to the new line if they are looking for even more control. With an improved shaft and more forgiveness, I can finally say again that I really like a TaylorMade driver. However, the r7 just might replace the S. I felt very comfortable swinging it and loved the ballflight. Yes it is ccs, but before, during and after my swing I never thought about the size.
Please pardon the analogy, but I usually like to stay away from the first year a new car is released. There are always some bugs and kinks to work out. The r7 Quad was that first year car. The and shows a great improvement and two clubs that are worth taking out for a test drive. I have been a TyalorMade guy for many years now, starting with the Series drivers. This driver feels like home. Its setup is classic TaylorMade — confident and easy. The results are terrific. If you don't like the way a club looks, chances are you won't hit it well.
Well, the R7 is sleek, with elegant lines and a classic black crown. No problems with its looks. But, the R7 sets up with a closed face. The closed face is intended to discourage slicing, but I have a natural draw. That meant that until I got the hang of how to hit this club properly for my particular swing, I hit a bunch of low hooks.
To "fix" this issue, I needed to make two adjustments - one to my hand position at address and one to the club. By experimenting, I learned that using more forward press during setup could prevent at least some of the hooking caused by the interaction of the closed club face and my draw. By altering the club's movable weights located near the heel and toe , you're actually able to tune the driver's center of gravity so that it promotes a particular ball flight.
So, I set the MWT to encourage a neutral ball flight rather than a draw. After I adjusted my setup and tweaked the weight system, the ball started flying straight as an arrow - and higher and longer, too.
The weights are easy to move but stay in place firmly once locked into position. Swapping and moving the weights of the MWT requires a special wrench that comes with the driver.
So, if you buy a used TaylorMade R7 driver, make sure the wrench is part of the deal. The HIGHER setting raises the loft to the maximum value with a maximum opening of the clubface and an increase in lie angle. The LOWER setting lowers the loft to the minimum value with the clubface opening to the maximum extent and the lie angle increasing partly.
The UPRT setting changes only the lie angle and sets it at the highest value. Put the clubhead back in place ensuring that you align the arrow mark on the clubhead below the stated loft marking with the preferred sleeve marking. Place the wrench once again as mentioned earlier in Step 1.
Turn the wrench in the clockwise direction to tighten the screw and lock the clubhead in position. Avoid turning when you hear a click sound that offers assurance that your clubhead is seated in place. Turning after you hear the click sound can damage the driver shaft. You will usually hear the click sound after you do the same number of anticlockwise turns and clockwise turns. TaylorMade R7 driver adjustment chart The TaylorMade R7 driver adjustment chart for the driver with the different loft options is given below.
Stated Loft Loft Increase 0. The following steps give you an understanding on how to adjust the weights in your R7 driver.
Insert the TaylorMade wrench into the head of one screw weight at the bottom of your driver. Turn it to the right to loosen it and remove it with a sliding action.
Do the same process for all the weights. For maximum fade, position the two red 10g weights as close as possible towards the toe of the driver or to the outside. For lesser fade, use one red 10g weight and one yellow 2g weight. The fade setting accelerates the toe faster than the heel and closes the clubface at impact.
For maximum draw, position the two 10g red weights as close as possible towards the heel of the driver or to the inside. For a lesser draw, use one yellow 2g weight and one red 10g weight. The fade setting accelerates the heel faster than the toe and opens the clubface on impact. For a low trajectory, place the two 10g red weights near the clubface as much as possible. For a high trajectory, place the two red 10g weights away from the clubface as much as possible. Tighten the screws to secure them in place by turning the wrench tip inside the screw head to the left.
The weightscan be tightened and locked in place, after doing the setting, using the same wrench. Continue Reading Continue Reading. Adjustable weight system with two 2g weights yellow and two 10g weights red. Handicappers of all levels, especially those with a high handicap. Stated Loft. Loft Increase 0. LOWER Lie Angle.
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