I have tapered the front end of the pin slightly with some fine sand paper, then oil or grease. Seems to help. I'm surprised no one has said this yet but: 1 Scotch Blue Painter's Tape I make a little hole in it and put it over the roll pin hole so it prevents accidental marring of the finish. Grease on roll pin, scotch tape holding pin to punch, compact pliers multi-tool.
Slam that shit home. Don't forget to "masking tape" around the area of the pin, so don't marr up your rifle. Usually put some blue painters tape on areas such as both sides of the bolt stop on the lower reciever. So nothing gets scratched.
Then use a roll pin punch. The roll pin punch has a "NUB" on the tip that keeps the roll pin from deforming. Obviously everyone is free to do whatever they want. To me using the proper tools for a job is the professional way. For the bolt release I use a pair of forceps to hold the pin on the edge of the hole, I lube the pin and hole and I use a Knipex set of nickle plated pliers link is below , after I get the pin started I let go of it from the forceps and the rest is done by the Knipex tool.
The coating on the pliers allows me to not scratch the lower at all. This tool gives me very precise control over the amount of pressure and movement of the pin going in. I use this method on even painted lowers ceracoat or dura, I have no had a issue since doing it this way. I have to give credit I found the tool and the method here on the forum but it was a while ago and I was not able to locate the link.
I made the investment in the tool as I do this a lot now for a local company but I have never regretted it to this day. Knipex Tool Gas tube install wise I use the standard orange block with a roll pin starter and a set of good punches is all. But the starter makes it super easy.. I did find a really cool way of removing the pins though without jacking things up.. I use ones very similar to these, they work great to get the little things out quick and no fumbling with a hammer.
Spring punches Forward assist wise I flip the upper over on it's back so the under hole is facing the ceiling and I use a roll pin starter and a roll pin punch,. I just use some CLP in the hole.
Protect with masking tape if I'm worried about marring the receiver. For the bolt catch pin, I use a pin punch to hold it in place from the opposite side A drop of CLP, then tap in the roll pin from the other side with a roll pin punch and a small hammer.
Goes right in and pushed the pin punch out as it goes. No fuss, no muss. I tried the vice grip thing on my first build but I didn't have much luck with it. Many swear by it though I use These , they are a god send for starting.
Then a standard roll pin punch to finish getting the pin in place. For even more protection, you can do a layer of blue and then duct tape over that. Duct tape doesn't release very well and the blue tape layer cures that problem. I find driving them in with the correct roll pin punch pretty darn easy. Makes a lot more sense to me than messing with pliers, vice grips, channel locks, etc Am I missing something here? If you need squeeze one side just a bit to make it easier to start.
A broken hardened steel punch can destroy multiple drill bits if you have to drill out the stuck punch. Use the right tool and the correct replacement pin for best results. The roll pin insertion tool holds the pin while you tap it into place. Start by aligning the two parts to each other at 90 degrees and in the same flat plane. If the parts are twisted out of alignment, the pin can be jammed. Release any securing pins or locking devices and using the correct size roll pin punch, tap the broken pin out of the hole.
Don't pound the pin with a solid faced mallet to prevent expansion of the pin in the hole. If it's jammed, try soaking the areas around the pin with a rust release compound before trying again.
If you can remove the entire assembly, a machinist shop may be able to press the pin out with a hydraulic press. Additionally, heat-treated steel is known to keep up its shape and edge for a more extended time.
The striking end is adequately hard to withstand any damage arising from being struck repeatedly. The working end is sufficiently versatile to oppose twisting when being used. Eventually, your necessities should assume the main part in directing which pack you ought to put resources into. Very much like with most devices, even the best pin punch set will require routine upkeep.
This guarantees it lives through its normal life expectancy. As a rule, punches are contrastingly tempered, and the working end is more robust than the striking end.
This subjects the striking end to damages; therefore, this vulnerable end should be dressed to forestall damage. If you have a standard pin punch set, you might have the option to utilize it for roll pins for one-off work, but over the long haul, it will harm both the pins and the punches and render them useless. Roll pins are commonly used in car engines and firearms. However, if the pin is stuck or broken, you may need to resort to more aggressive methods to remove it.
Make an effort to pound the pin punch vertically. Try not to utilize your roll pin punch set to pound onto level surfaces. This will rapidly twist the ballpoint end and make it difficult to utilize it for its necessary size. There are various phenomenal brands for gunsmiths. For the most part, brands suitable for mechanical use are also applicable to gunsmith undertakings. If you are utilizing heavy-duty punches, you can easily etch on steel.
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